So if you are like me, you are here scouring all of the blogs for hints, advice, and the opportunity to gain knowledge to make your RTP adventure a success.  As I sit in the middle of the Big Apple, my opportunities to actually train and prep in the same conditions as the races are a true challenge, and I proudly consider myself a research maven.  So as to keep my karma in good standing, I’m sharing here some of my many notes of “Next Time” (what I’d like to improve for the next time) and “FOR THE WIN” (which are the things I SO appreciated on the trek – as this is my 4^th go round, I’m including many of the repeat items which brought me support and comfort).  I hope I can give back a little for all of the GREAT advice and tips I’ve absorbed from other RTP blogs over the year.  So many SMART people!

(A quick note that if you are FAST, which I am not, please look to the blogs of those front leaders.  They are amazing and I think super human.  Their packs are tiny, and after watching many survive on only powders for liquid nutrition throughout the week and no sleeping pads and and and, don’t think you are going to get that kind of advice here!  What I love about RTP adventures is that there is a place for EVERYONE – and all are respected, applauded and welcomed, no matter what your goal is with this race).

FOR THE WIN:

Raidlight Pack:  Past races had me checking out ALL gear (don’t we all do that) and noting that many woman were killing it with Raidlight packs.  I do love my OM, but the war scars on my shoulders do tell a slightly different story.  I went for it in prepping for this race and am so glad.  Much padding on the shoulders, a design to take the pack OFF of my back (it’s curved) and lots and lots of clever and hidden pockets, ties, and perks that make your life better on the trail😊 I love the water placement – no more hunting for my water bottles that have fallen to my hip level!  My weight came in just under 11kg this round of which I am proud!

Trekking Poles:  just say yes.  Always a help and easy enough to pack away when not needed.  But OH when needed – saves the legs, and adds that level of a helping hand for river crossings, climbs and so on.  Not to mention if a ferocious dog or animal is headed your way, you have a little extra confidence (????!!!!!) in your hands!

Hot Pocket:  I’m a strong supporter of repackaging all freeze dried food.  I find the original packaging big and bulky and it takes up a lot of room.  Some people reuse one shell over and over (another way to do it).  Do wait for arriving at the race hotel and then transfer to small zip locks so you don’t have a fiasco at airport security.  I picked up a hot pocket from a company called HYPER-LITE that allows me to keep the ziplock inside as the food heats.  They have lots of other great products including super light bags to make sense of your category of items (ie. Headlamps, personal items, etc)

INJINJI TOE SOCKS with FOOT POWDER and BODY GLIDE:  always always always.  One day is not always like the next when it comes to blisters, so with respect I say that I found my magic formula.  Body glide all over the foot, then copious amounts of foot powder IN THE SOCK and then these truly magical toe socks.  Amazing combo and whether river crossings or climbing seems to do the trick (at least for now).  And you don’t necessarily need a fresh pair daily (although some say that that is their magic formula).  DO check that you have left and right’s matched up before you leave (although when I had an off pair I love that I could just wear it inside out to work – always a solution to be had!)

CAMP SHOES:  Some people like their crocs or flip flops; others go for a nab of their airplane or hotel slippers (NOT my recommendation with so much mud and dung at camp), but I found my perfect fit while in Finland with Vibram water shoes!  They work great in camp (as needed), are a great standby if anything goes awry with my feet or running shoes; and are the perfect footwear home on the plane with feet that can swell to unbelievable sizes.

NEXT TIME:

Food:  ugh.  I lost all appetite this week and the thought of freeze dried anything just turned my stomach.  Big work for me ahead on better fueling as that was part of my challenge this week thinking that lo carb would work (it didn’t, well, I didn’t eat it, so that was a loss on all parts).  My DIY mix ups of ½ oatmeal and ½ granola with dried fruit however was a BIG WIN and will be repeated.  With a nod to most successful and fueled racers, I will be experimenting with the well-loved mashed potatoes and noodle selections for the next round.  Smelled good, was tasty, and cool fuel.

SLEEPING PAD:  So I went with a new idea this round, the blow up pad.  Meh.  Noisy, I fall off, and it takes time to blow up and reverse for packing up.  I think I may research this further for the next round.  I did miss my accordion pad that just flicks open – and I always cut off the bottom portion to make it even smaller/lighter.  You really only need the support and warmth for the shoulders and core.  (Hell – the winner of Gobi carried a small square that was so small you could only sit on it!  He said it was just for his shoulders.  Talk about small footprint!)

INSECTS:  Somehow I forgot from Finland, but pre-treat gear and clothes for insects!  There are some major assholes on the course (I especially disliked the flies and gnats – bullies!).  I can’t help but think that the pre-treat would have helped (like in Lapland) and perhaps a small bottle of repellant of some sort.

Boots vs Runners:  Thank you Dean for the lesson on your shoe wear!  As someone who walks (fast) for the course (you are amazing Dean) it was interesting to hear your explanation as to why the boot is better than a trail runner/sneaker.  Research ahead!  Gaiters working on all options.

LIGHT hat and cover:  I don’t know why I didn’t bring mine – it was in my luggage, but I relied on my trusty DCINY baseball hat (with buff pulled up over ears and neck, which does work), probably because of luck and superstition.  I wear it ALWAYS.  But the lighter hat would have been welcomed.  It got DAMN HOT.

Cup/Bowl WITH lid:  Time to upgrade.  Many opting for cups or bowls with lids.  Worth the “extra” to feel human at grub time.  I must say that eating out of zip locks does get tiresome.

Nutrition:  Probably my biggest point – I went UCAN for this race, which does me GREAT in NYC for road races, but for the longer hauls I think its time to revisit what my body needs.  The 50’s club has changed a lot of things – and although I will continue my commitment to no/low sugar (YAY UCAN!) I plan on experimenting to see what other carbs and sugars I need to zoot up with.  This was my biggest challenge this week – no gas in the tank. I may revisit TAILWIND which was my old favorite.  Easy to use, tasty, and good fuel.

Hey - thank YOU for reading through and getting to this point.  I've uploaded lots of Gobi photos in a Mongolia album to my Facebook page if you want more visuals (it is a stunning place) - so please do visit, comment, and if I can help with a question, I'm available!  Good luck to you!

https://www.facebook.com/iris.derke/

Saving this entry for all of the “after”.  I highly recommend that anyone considering Gobi take time PRIOR to the race (must must must with the 12 hour time change for me) and AFTER, if possible.  UB is an amazing city and I was pleasantly surprised that my return post-race delivered a city that I had already found my way about and felt comfortable.  People are friendly and curious – welcoming with smiles, and if you need help, although English is not quite proficient, they will assist you in any way they can.  Food is tasty and inexpensive; and shopping, oh the shopping.  So many unique things, and again inexpensive.  I found myself wanting to capture all of the sights/tastes/smells/delight and bring it all home to my family.  I picked up the most beautiful clothes that I cannot wait to wear when home reminding me of this colorful place.

CARS/TRAFFIC:  yes yes – amazing traffic.  Snarled and slow but the “amazing” part is that honking is at a minimum, and I realized midway that cars are NOT bashed in!  In NYC you see dents, scratches, bumpers hanging and so on – not so in UB.  All the cars look in perfect condition, a testament to the patient and caring nature of its people, I guess?  BUT, I will say that as I crossed streets with cars going every which way whenever they want,  I likened myself to a stray dog, aligning myself with packs of people crossing to help me navigate and make sure I was safe.  And that’s from someone who walks wherever they hell SHE wants in NYC traffic (lights are just a suggestion in my book!).

My wandering, or “walk abouts” like I like to say with a nod to the aboriginal walk-abouts (look it up!), took me to monasteries, stores, coffee shops (the coffee is SO good here), statues and parks.  The street signs are mostly NOT in English, so a true sense of adventure and discovery does live freely here.  With my Verizon connection NOT working well, it was fun to embrace old discovery and map reading skills once again, and truly, any turn in any direction was not disappointing; UB quickly became familiar to me.  The main square a lovely space to reset to – with activities daily.  On my last day a youth club took over a portion and set up boxing and basketball (two very popular sports in Mongolia).

Sunday seems to be a well enjoyed family day (in fact it is obvious that family is a core to this culture) with people strolling and enjoying the city.  I took in a cultural show which included EXACTLY what I was hoping for (thank you Jana, Uuree and Eventour for setting this up for me) of THROAT SINGING.  AMAZING AMAZING AMAZING – all of it, from music, costumes, acrobatics….history.  And the flautist kick ass demonstrating some wild circular breathing that brought the house to unending applause.  RTP kindly arranged for a small concert for us at camp on Day 1, but I highly recommend anyone coming in take part and see one of these shows for the full experience.

And a final recommendation on the travel portion – when departing it is a huge help to get in to the Korean Air lounge (if you can) – not expensive, good treats, and a private security check in to the airport (if its crowded).  I started my journey home on Tuesday morning, with RTP volunteer Carmen as a trusty companion booked on the same flights through Minneapolis.  Long story short, despite Global entry and being the first person through customs, and probably my fastest pace running through the MSP airport, I did NOT make my NYC connection.  In fact as I ran up to the desk I could see the plane pulling away!  I asked the gate attendant nicely if they could come back to get me….but alas, that was a “No”, no matter how much chocolate and smiles I offered.  Oh well.  We go with the flow…….a quick hotel book for a few hours sleep and a shower has reset me to a new person for a full day (rather than an endless one from yesterday).  A good investment and all on time to whisk me home today – best part: WITH my luggage that magically stayed in MSP (I suppose I shouldn’t celebrate just yet).

It will take me awhile to process all, and my hope with this additional time “granted” to me on re-entry that the pouring of words here will support that journey.  In my earlier blogs I likened myself to an astronaut awaiting the one connection a day to “home” – to read emails, and share words.  Perhaps this was another stage of “re-entry” giving me the opportunity to capture more thoughts and put them in to words.  I always get frustrated with my writing because there is SO much I wish to convey and there never seems to be enough time or just the right words (and words DO matter).  But I try(!) and hope to capture as much as I can.

I have a talk at Columbia this Friday where I’ve been invited to share the story of me and our business with DCINY – and hopefully I can find the right words to inspire some of our future entrepreneurs who are attending the program.  I certainly have a lot I can pull from and add to my story with these past 2 weeks and hope that I can make some sense out a 45 minute outline with the hours I have left before touching down to my beautiful and welcoming family and reality.  I do find wonder on how life, family, work and experiences like these interweave to make us who we are – or rather better understand who we are now and who we want to be – and adventures like this, to be absorbed to make us better, deeper and more colorful.

I must say I’m proud of myself – for the last morning I had a 5:30 race start which meant a quasi 4am wake up.  I am quite adept now at being able to pack up all of my gear, set myself up for a run (body glide, foot powder, etc etc etc) in the dark, quietly, and all done before a morning wake up trip to the loo.  I was out of that tent in record time trying to not disturb the others.  That’s a skill I don’t think I can include on a resume exactly and may not be useful in NYC, but I am proud of it!

So, my gift was the invitation to run the last day – to experience some more of these beautiful trails and scenery – and to enter in to the final spot that I’ve seen in so many pictures.  Taking that one dimensional view from website photos and being able to experience it full scale, including the Mongolian musical ensemble playing at the finish line, is one I will treasure always.

The start across the river was magnificent – the water cool and welcoming and leading to open paths up to the “city”.  So quiet, horses about everywhere.  I just soaked it in.  And true to the universe, or the Mongolian trolls, or whomever I wish to “thank” I had 2 “unique” moments sent my way as if to squeeze in experience that I may have missed over the last few days on the trail: 

• As I made my way through town, following pink flags and pink arrows graffitied on to the ground a car passed me. It slowed, and then waited for me to catch up with the window rolling down.  The driver (on my side, since cars are imported from all over, so the driver can be on the left or the right, anyone’s guess) was dressed in a military uniform and I could see him pulling up a translator on his phone as I caught up with him.  He gestured to his car OFFERING ME A RIDE (again?  Another one after the other offer earlier this week?!)… is it me????  I had a motorcycle ride offered on Day 1, a car ride on this day, but still awaiting my horse (please – can I add that one to the list?!).  As I kindly gestured no thank you and he pulled away I must admit that I started laughing out loud.  I must have looked like a crazy lady on the road cackling away like that.  

• Shortly after that unique moment, as I stayed on the grass (rather than the road), I noted 2 rather large dogs laid down in the grass – suddenly noticing me, one erupted in to fits of ferocious barking and came at me. I quickly moved over the road not caring about cars and wanting to show him that I was not broaching his territory and he backed off a bit but the barking continued and the flared canines.  I heard a car approaching from behind me and the started at me yet again perhaps challenged now by the car.  I grabbed my poles and started to plan what I would do in case I needed them, and to be honest, I could feel my heart rate pulsating through my whole body.  Quickening my pace and trying to get away from him the car stopped in front of me and thankfully was a RTP truck!  They jumped out and started yelling and throwing rocks at the dog and he backed off.  Honestly, I couldn’t believe this was happening – ONE DAMN 10K I chose to run and this??????  I thanked the volunteers and they took off….. and I had to laugh (AGAIN) as my Garmin started buzzing informing me that I had a new HIGH MAX of heart rate (184!).  So, that’s all it takes for some HIIT work??  Once again I started cackling out loud as I made my way forward – crazy lady from NYC.

Oh the emotions of the day – LAUGHING, SCARED/THREATENED.  And then as I talked in to my phone conveying my thoughts for future blog writing it came to TEARS….leading to BEAUTY and JOY as I entered in to the monastery/palace.  It is at that point, after the thrill of finishing the run that I embraced my role to WITNESS today.  And watching everyone coming over the finish line – jumping, laughing, crying, all of it, it brought that deepness of emotion that I’ve referenced earlier.  That is something truly special and I am so glad that I stayed on and accepted my new and recalibrated path this week.  It’s a good reminder to me to always pursue new options, do something that scares you, and so on – all those cliches do come from experience, yet we learn new lessons every day like we are the very first ones to do so!

The return to the hotel is yet another “stage” of this incredible ultra.  6.5 hours by bus back to the Novotel  complete with another feeding frenzy at a local rest stop along the way. I think the RTP crew bought out every crisp, chocolate and edible fruit available!  Unfortunately the beer purchase attempt was squashed as the country has an alcohol moratorium for 3 days during elections.  Much theory amongst everyone as to the “why” of it but I think we all settled on the “of sound mind when voting” philosophy (perhaps that could help in the US – yeah right).  I must say they are very thorough though – no alcohol can be purchased ANYWHERE, and even mini bars at the hotel were cleared out.  Everyone faired well anyhow and favorites from Coke to ice cream loudly enjoyed. (see photo below of what ensued afterwards – the complete sleep wipe out of bus 4!)

I was on a “lucky” bus that had a driver who seemed to know every turn around the awful traffic that UB is known for.  As we swept past another broken down RTP bus I sent good wishes their way (SORRY Bill – I’m sorry that was such a long trek back and only wish we could have magically transported you all to our bus!).  The hotel was actually pretty well prepped for us with the entire lobby full of our tagged luggage and keys quickly available.  There are a few epic showers in one’s lifetime – the shower AFTER one of these ultras is definitely on the top 10 (my notes from post race showers in Patagonia and Atacama solidly in the epic category).  Oh the dirt, the hair….well, I’ll leave it at that and share advice for those planning on participating in the future – BRING a gallon of soap and conditioner.  Hair takes forever!  Popped on the scale and down almost 10 pounds.  Wow.

The banquet, as always, full of fun, cheers and tears with goodbyes. The photos and videos amazingly awesome (well done!) and awards applauded wildly (congrats tentmate Linds on your award!  So proud!  You are a beast!).  More than I can include at this point but in wanting to conclude this epic and long day, I’ll say THANK YOU RTP.  You create the most amazing opportunities for adventure, connection and awe.  I cannot wait for the next round!  There was a wonderful clip in the highlights video which captured participant Sal (AUS) who said it perfectly (pardon the perhaps not 100% accurate paraphrasing): The view at the mountaintop AFTER you have climbed it is the BONUS, not the point. Appreciate the climb and the fact that you DID IT.  It’s not about the view.  Well said Sal.

--

Restless sleep last night which was the opposite of what I ‘ordered’ – my last night of clean sheets and hot showers for a bit, so I’ll just take that part as a win.  My brain non stop with 2 sides yelling at eachother – the WORK side vs the RACE side --- much ado about nothing…. Ha. Lists, final check offs, and so on.  We’ve all been there so no need to bore you with the details but at 4 this morning I yelled out BASTA! (apologies to my hotel neighbors) and jumped in to the finishing touches of all.  Final work emails that this time I really really really was logging off and truly won’t have connectivity in the Gobi Desert – and no, I have not been kidnapped, and no this is not a phishing scam - yes this is me in Mongolia.  So yes, after a flurry of wrap up emails early this morning (NY aft/eve) I’m turning down that dial.

As for RACE final checks – that’s the part I look forward to completing today with check in on gear shortly.  Our competitor briefing this morning with delightfully energetic with smiles and hugs and a general electricity of excitement throughout.  Always great to see Mary who runs the most amazing ship called “Racing the Planet” running down rules, expectations, weather and so on.  New for me this round is the requirement of a GPS to be worn when on the course.  And if you DON’T return it – you pay…..although as Mary shared perfectly, the plus of it being a GPS device is that if you do lose it on the course – THEY CAN FIND IT (rim shot….).

Final checks and camaraderie as we share thoughts, new decision making on gear – or how you pack it – and shared advice from past races.  My philosophy is to approach all with beginner mind, especially anything as challenging as what I have ahead of me this week, so it surprises me when I find others new to RTP looking to me for advice.  I am a tried and true back of the packer/enjoy the journey type, so perhaps that kind of advice is needed for those (like me) in awe of the front runners who have advice I may have used 20 years ago!  But, I was SO lucky to have so many runners (of ALL speeds) help me through my first few races with advice on gear, course, and all of it in general, that it truly makes me happy to return the favor!  I’m especially channeling Lynne Barry from Australia who helped me through Patagonia (my first race) when I was in tears and could not even fathom HOW I was going to get all in my backpack.  To this day I still use the cinch sack and tethers she lent me with good luck and good grace which spurned me on to enjoy a phenomenal experience that has had me returning many times since.  Thank you Lynne and so many people I wish I could name here!

GEAR CHECK:

Yep – they check everything on the mandatory list to make sure you have it ALL, especially the required nutrition which for someone like me is never a problem, and actually the opposite.  I always seem to bring TOO much.  I managed to cut down better this round, but no matter, one’s appetite leaves you by Day 2 or 3 and food gets left behind daily.

(time pause)

Back from my check (all good!) and one MORE repack – good to finalize it all…final final but not final if you know what I mean……

Needing to log off as it is that time.  Adding in a photo of my final pack – sleeker than before – and a shot of my brand new GPS.  Next time perhaps a chip under the neck like a beloved pet????

See you on email (yes please do send – they print all emails out, so it IS public – so mind you Roberto, keep it clean --- which is a godsend when I arrive in camp; and I will do my best to post blogs nightly.  If anything to capture what happened during those many hours – once again I am sure words won’t suffice but I will try and breadcrumb it!  And major disclaimer – when I go in to extreme like this, the 30 years being married to a jazz musician from Brooklyn and those same 30 years living, growing and surviving in the jungle known as NYC brings out my own colorful version of language and humor - perhaps one could say that the filters go away!  I find it impactful and gets one's point across a hell of a lot quicker!  AND another disclaimer, if my writing looks like nonsense, or might offend my amazing HS and College English teachers who drilled proper grammar and spelling in to me – I am sorry!  This will quickly turn in to stream of consciousness writing.  I hope you enjoy!  And thanks for the good vibes.  Away we go......

xo 

I should have added “Wild Weather” to yesterday’s blog.  We were promised the possibility of 4 seasons being experienced in one day, but today has truly been amazing.  SNOW – and lots of it.  The whole city shut down with incoming flights cancelled (oh the poor runners trying to get here for tomorrow’s journey to camp 1) and a winter scene outside the hotel that despite all of the drama is pure beauty!  We got out for a short walk about to the local market for water and snacks and truly enjoyed the magic of it all – cool and fresh – and what a way to celebrate the summer solstice today.  It looks like the forecast ahead does NOT include more snow but will give us mid temps (60’s), fluctuating low enough to appreciate down coats and thick sleeping bags, and high enough to enjoy the course during the day, the only pitfall expected to be high winds; but being an eternal optimist, I trust that the wind will be at my back pushing me forward in the right direction!

The time change and jet lag has definitely played with my perception of the day --- I have to check my watch for date and time but the last 2 days have fallen in to the same routine.  Up at 4-5am - hellos to Rob and Ella awakening in NYC and immediately tending to a very busy NY – emails, calls, and surprisingly, facetimes.  I think people like “talking with Mongolia” – it’s something like Mr. Peterman in Seinfeld, Elaine’s boss, who was always off on some far flung adventure.  Today the hours flew by to the point where I knew I had to break as NY went to sleep and west coast business was just dying down. I feel a little bit like an astronaut who only has certain hours of connection with Earth – time to be anticipated and well used – and then when the link drops and everyone goes to bed I can return to gear prep. 

I have been asked by those unfamiliar with adventures such as this one, (ultramarathon, stages and self-supported) about the logistics, and I promised to share a bit with a blog:  What’s in Iris’ pack?  I sure wanted to know myself over the last few weeks and am pleased to say that I just did my final pack and for the first time (this is my 4^th RTP adventure) not only did it all fit right away, but I have ROOM TO SPARE (don’t let anyone else know – I am NOT carrying anything extra for anyone!  Joke, but no joke!).  And with my trusty luggage scale I clocked it in at 24 pounds, which is my lightest pack yet. I’ve been training at home with anywhere from 16-22 pounds (including my day pack for work) so there is relief in knowing that day 1, which is always the heaviest with the most amount of gear and food, won’t be a surprising challenge.

What’s in the box????? (film quote for some of you who may know…..Brad Pitt wining in the film: Se7en)

Or rather – what’s in the rucksack????? (and NO, not what Brad found in his box)

what is in there? EVERYTHING, well just about, that I will need to make it through the 7 days, 155 miles.

(except for what Racing the Planet provides: shared tents at night; fire and hot water to heat our food, and more importantly coffee; water throughout to refill our water bottles totaling 1.5 liters of water at every checkpoint (that’s another 3 pounds added to my pack); and the absolute best support, comradery, humor, and (often) bad jokes throughout check points, starting and finish lines and when you least expect it on the course – truly(!), they just pop up!)

All items below are required and checked on Day 1 before you are given a bib and allowed to start the race.  If something is missing either you are penalized or you may not be allowed to start.  As often happens, items are forgotten, luggage lost, etc which has prompted a wonderful tradition of many runners bringing LOADS of extra gear with them to the far flung locations to help eachother out.  This year is no different with an overactive Whatsapp group of “the helpers” (Mr. Rogers would be proud of this group of people).  And with that activity of lost & found, there are lots of visits from hotel room to hotel room, mine included – with my lend of items to others, and (ugh) my miscalculation of water bottles needed (thank you Vickie and Alisher – not only for helping me out, but for getting a chance to meet and talk strategies!).

FOOD:

We are required to have a minimum of 14,000 calories for the week which is made up of freeze dried foods, sports gels, energy bars, nutrition supplements, etc. all bagged by day to make sure that everything is accounted for, especially for the ever challenging long stage (50 miles) which I anticipate will take me anywhere from 20-22 hours pending the course.

I’ve morphed over the years from high carb mac and cheese type choices to NEXT MILE foods, which is lo carb and low in sugar (2 changes in my life that have made a huge impact on me, my energy levels, and my overall health).  The fun part is repacking each freeze dried package (the original packaging great if you are just camping) to a lighter ziplock for the race (it's all about the final weight of the pack, every ounce counts).  My room became a coke den of cajun spices, jumbalaya tid bits, and accounting for each and every exygen absorber packet that states DO NOT EAT and be sure to remove prior to doing so!  With such long hours on the course it is to my benefit to take that time NOW so when it is dark, and I am exhausted I don’t find myself chewing on one and wondering if I have just poisened myself!

A few ziplocks of a mix of oatmeal and granola (lo sugar) with a Justin’s almond packet (yum, hazelnut or maple) is my new morning go to.  I found all to quickly on the last race that although I like eggs every day at home, freeze dried and on the course becomes unpalatable immediately. 

  * a special note to Ella who has designated me the ziplock queen (which I do not dispute) - my apologies - I have not tallied my use of zip locks for this race, but I do believe that my title will remain.  I will leave it at that *

Subcategory SNACKS:  ever so important and often the food that doesn’t get eaten, but is just nice to know you have it.  NUTS with protein balls dried fruit.  MOON CHEESE (my absolute favorite).  A piece of jerky for something different when I can no longer eat food (that usually hits by Day 2 or 3 and I need to push to eat and keep the fuel burning).

And what should be its own category COFFEE.  I found a great new addition to my pack – a teabag of coffee that tastes so much better than instant.  'STEEPED COFFEE' where have you been all my life?  An addition of my high protein hot chocolate to my coffee makes for a perfect morning as I am usually one of the first up and love to enjoy a cup by the fire watching the stars turn to sunrise.  The hot choco not only adds taste, but calories and the all important pursuit of protein.

ENERGY and ELECTROLYTES:

I won’t go in to a full description here but just mention my go-to’s currently.  UCAN has been the best for me (no sugar) for their ENERGY (which goes in to one of my running water bottles) and ELECTROLYTES (which goes in to the other running water bottle).  I leapfrog through the day between an occasional UCAN Energy Bar for something more solid, salt tabs if I can’t take anymore Ucan, and Sports Beans for a boost and to feed my soul with a treat if needed.

CLOTHES:

Not too much here.  The race has its requirements to make sure you are well provided for throughout but basically 2 pairs of running pants and 2 tops (1 of the 2 being worn); a warm coat, a rain coat (and poncho for extreme), and minimum suggested numbers of undergarments to layer as needed.  Running gaiters are super helpful with rocks, and the sand dunes.

GEAR:

Sleep is one of my most important aspects of the race I have an awesome lightweight sleeping bag along with my 1 of 2 new items for the race: an air mattress.  I’m a LITTLE worried about puncture possibilities, but the view of my entire tent in Lapland looking like they were floating on clouds while I was in a divet with a boulder under my ass….well, you get the idea.  I’m convinced.  Will let you know how that all turns out.  It’s the blowing up part I’ll need energy for at the end of the night….. The rest of the gear a long list of headlamps (and back ups, especially needed for the Long Stage – 50 miles), first aid kits, toilet paper/toothbrush/etc, compass, whistle, waterproof bag (for the backpack to account for river crossings – don’t want to end a race because of your pack being water logged!).  The optional items I lean on and my #1 favorite piece of gear are my trekking poles.  I never even knew they existed but for Patagonia I brought a pair and they quickly saved my butt on more moments on the course than I can even mention.  Since then I rely on the confidence they give me, and the extra hours they lend my legs and body – amazing sticks!

And ALL of that has to fit in to my backpack --- my second piece of NEW gear for this race.  I went for it an got myself an Ultralight --- the one I stared at with envy at past races, and wow, what a difference.  OM has done me good in the past, but now with a better frame OFF of my lower back so I can sweat – and padding around the waist belt – and so many smart pockets and tethers – well, I think I am in love.  Again, I’ll update after this trek, but oh my!  I just finished my first (and ONLY) pack and am convinced it was a good choice.

Well the hours are ticking by – and news of diverted runners making it to new flights and getting in to Ulaanbaatar is good news.  I’m sure there will be lots of stories to tell around the first campfire tomorrow.  Early morning briefings, check ins by tent to make sure all gear is accounted for and a 2pm departure to camp 1.  I have heard anything from 3 to 6 hours to get there…..again, depending on the WILD TRAFFIC (do you sense a theme here?) so we will see.  The race starts Sunday morning at 8AM.  Weeeeeeeee!

(Pardon the book report format but it was a really FULL day.  With jet lag and all just wanting to get all the details in, for now!)

Knowing that the first day after long travel and a significant time change can make one just want to sleep when you shouldn't,  I jumped at the opportunity to book a suggested tour by Racing the Planet – National Park, Monastary, Mongolian lunch and so on.  A full day event that would keep me moving, keep the sun on my face and make SURE that I would not crawl in to bed in the middle of the day.  It was a few days prior that I realized I was the only one booked for a tour that could take a minivan – so after a quick shout out on the Whatsapp group of runners each slot pinged full quickly guaranteeing a day of new friends and conversations revolving around race tips, etc.  So “wild jet lag” addressed, and now with participants from Singapore (Chris, Winston, Gary and Vera), the US (Jody), and Spain (Irina and Fabio) joining, my hope for some “Wild Company” also on its way to fulfillment!  2 volunteers and 5 newbies, although well versed, new to the RTP adventure! Racing the Planet ALWAYS brings together the most interesting of people - with the crazy benefit of clicking right away.  But, little did I know how wild it would become….

We all met early for our departure to the national park and enjoyed quite a hike and rock scramble to the very top of the rock with a picture posted below – the vistas unbelievable, including the view of the meditation center and monastery and the next highest hill to be climbed after getting down this one!  That however was serene and peaceful…..a long walk up, including 108 steps to the active meditation center complete with prayer wheels.  I hope that pictures can convey the many words I am not able to quite convey here….it was truly a beautiful setting, a magic in the air.  And as our get-to-know-ya conversations got deeper and deeper we made our way to a traditional Mongolian lunch…..mongolian milk tea (like I have never tasted before), meat pastries and dumplings.  Hearty food and very tasty.  Good fuel for our impending time with Wild Horses!  Mongolian horses are shorter and more stout and strong.  I won’t go in to all of the history here (google does it better than I), but they are truly spectacular creatures, and in some listings referred to as Asian Wild Ass (that is true fact, I am NOT making a joke – but that fact well fueled our jokes and humor for much of the day).  We were told very clearly that these horses are part wild – so that means DON’T approach them from behind (well, we all know that about a horse, right?) AND DON’T approach them from their front (oh, ok?), and ONLY APPROACH them from their left.  Ok!  I guess there’s some respect for the beast here?  So that we did, helmets on, and gathered in groups tethered together (not quite the free cantering I love that some far flung beaches without US liabilities will allow their visitors).  As I chatted with the guide about what could be done to let me loose with my horse for a moment a flurry of sound, hooves, and high adrenalin hit the group.  And then a THUD.  As I turned I saw my new friend Winston from Singapore hanging on for dear life as his horse took off and before I knew it he was on the ground.  As I turned back another, Fabio was off his horse…… it looks that the WILD of these horses won that day as a horse was spooked by something in the grass that set the others off.  Everyone was ok – but there was some decisive decision making done as some opted to walk back and some continued the ride (my family knows what I did – hard to get me off of a horse – and hey my garmin watch dinged at the end of the ride letting me know I had accomplished 10,000 steps so far – horse steps count, don’t they?).  Let’s just say that nicknames are to be had (or rather EARNED) in these Racing the Planet adventures and I’m nominating Winston for something related to the name of these horses because he got back up on the horse and beasted it through the day……. #admiration to you Winston, and glad you are ok. 

In order to quell everyone’s pulsing adrenalin we were treated to a yert visit, with history and traditional snacks.  Did you know:  all doors to yerts in Mongolia face south as that is where their enemies have always come from.  And the door is always open and the yert available for whatever you might need.  And with their horses as their most prized possessions and never to be sold, often their saddles are kept inside for good luck.  AND, always always enter the yert with your RIGHT foot – that goes for all abodes, otherwise bad luck may come your way.  You can be sure that we will all be entering our tents throughout the week with our RIGHT foot first!

At this point the heavens opened up as we made our way to the largest statue in the world, the Genghis Khan statue (and museum) in the middle of nowhere.  Again – please see the photo!  It is HUGE – and truly in the middle of nowhere.  As we made our way up to it the size was awesome – the storm rolling in with ominous thunder and huge raindrops was perfectly timed to set the scene of this mighty warrior.  Our RTP crew, of course, perfectly prepared with race gear and paid no mind to the weather!  (I like this crew!  Lifeboat material!). 

I feel like I’ve written so much here and am desperate to go to bed…..the days long, and still not quite knowing the day or time – but I will wrap it up with our drive home.  All of us quite knackered (tired for those not familiar with brit slang!) and as our driver pulled in to a road supermarket our guide looked very excited announcing that we could stop for snacks and beer for the ride home!  Silence……most of us already eating our ready to go snacks (again, think RTP and ready for anything) and definitely not wanting beer as we were all trying to stay up and awake.  Made me laugh…… With a kind "decline" we hit the road back to the hotel.  The traffic in Ulaanbaatar is truly astonishing --- what should have been 1 hour was 3 with a mish mash of cars everywhere.  I’ve never seen anything quite like it – especially being told that this is how it is all the time.  A very long day but I crashed hard…..wild day accomplished and I managed to stay awake.  On to more gear prep.....carving away and will soon make the first pack and weight check here in Mongolia.  Hoping that I nail it sooner this time.  I hope that with experience and this being my 4th time at this kind of rodeo, it will keep getting easier.

What a warm and wonderful welcome as I arrive in Mongolia after 3 flights (LaGuardia-Atlanta-Seoul-Ulaanbaatar). It was a mighty long trek, departing Sunday afternoon from New York and not arriving until 11 AM Tuesday. Forget about Monday…it just did not exist… the sci fi flavor to it all doesn’t escape me and wandering a desolate, dark and eerie Seoul airport at 4am in the morning reminded me of many horror movie storylines in my head!  (That’s actually one of the benefits of these adventures that I value highly - the spark of one’s mind of stories, thoughts, memories, hallucinations sometimes and so on, dependent on the amount of miles and the lack of sleep). It didn’t escape me that the endless walk to my gate with no people and only the squeak of my rucksack and trail shoes on the floor was a hint of the many miles to come!  Might as well get in to the groove.

I’m posting this quick note with proof of life photos(!) and confirmation that I made it safely. (And even MORE importantly so did all of my luggage - and not one stop during many security checks. All gear and food here and accounted for!). It was really wonderful to meet fellow racers Jody (US) and Winston (Singapore) at the airport, who were also awaiting transfers to our hotel.  Racing the Planet has a knack for bringing together the most interesting people and with just a few short conversations I already feel like I’ve met some really special people.

For now I am feeling like a zombie after all of the hours of travel and a 12 hour time difference.  Focus is on staying awake past 8pm! A slow walkabout of a very different cityscape and people….and an iced coffee as I breathe the air. The weather is warm/mild and the hotel welcoming. After some sleep I have no doubt I’ll be able to write more, but for now sending hellos and love to everyone back at home. Thanks for following!

It’s time for “awe”….time to mindfully schedule and pair that with adventure; pursue something that challenges (and maybe slightly scares) you and visit a far away land that is unlike what you have ever experienced before.  The Gobi Desert Race has been sitting on my “bucket list” for a long time as I made my way through the Racing the Planet’s amazing adventures in Patagonia (2017), Atacama (2018) and Lapland (2022).  I realize that if one doesn’t plan ahead and commit to those adventures now when will you?  So with a lot of research (thank you to ALL of the past Gobi bloggers – your words, thoughts, achievements and challenges are absolutely amazing and inspirational to read) I made the commitment and my countdown clock has been ticking with an eye to a June departure to the other side of the world. 

Pulling out my well loved gear last used in Finland has made me plain old “happy”.  The careful consideration of my equipment being either 1. Too old and needs replacement or 2.  Old but perfectly useful and very comfortable or 3.  Too old and they have newer and better versions out there now(!!) has been taking up my idle moments for the past few weeks.  Much of that task now narrowed down with a huge shift for me from a folded sleeping pad to a blow up air mattress to try and squeeze out better nights of sleep and have a smaller footprint when packing (a perfect example of #3 from above).

For now, my flights and hotel for booked --- funny how that is exciting in itself!  There are so many hours in the air to get there (NYC-Seoul-Ulaanbaatar) with me leaving on a Sunday night and not arriving until Tuesday afternoon (where does Monday go?).  I made sure to book some extra days upon arrival to pad my body battery with jet lag adjustment, sleep and a chance to explore.

For now saying hello to fellow participants – what an adventure ahead we have!